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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has made the family totally astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble place securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.